Picking the Right Infrared Heater for Your Bathroom
When it comes to putting infrared lamps in a bathroom, most people think “more power equals more comfort.” But that’s actually a trap. It’s not about buying the biggest beast on the shelf; it’s about finding the sweet spot so you aren’t just throwing money out the window. Getting the size right I see this all the time with engineers: they over-spec the system. If you’re dealing with a tiny powder room—something under 4m²—a 400W to 600W shortwave lamp is plenty. If you slap a 1000W unit into a tiny space, you’ll hit the thermostat limit almost immediately. The heater will flick on and off constantly. We call that short-cycling, and it’s a killer. It wears out your relays and burns through filaments way faster than they should. Now, if you’ve got a big master bath (think 8m² to 12m²), that’s a different story. You’ll probably want a few lamps working together or one heavy-hitter over 1200W to make sure the warmth actually reaches the middle of the room. Water, heat, and melting plastic Since this is a bathroom, the IP rating is your best friend. You want sealed quartz envelopes. Why? Because moisture and electrical contacts are a terrible mix. But here’s the thing about high-wattage lamps: they pack a lot of heat into a very small area. You have to look at what you’re actually mounting the heater to. If you put a high-density 1500W lamp against a plastic-trimmed ceiling, you’re probably going to end up with warped fixtures. Not a great look. The trade-off: Speed vs. Power The great thing about shortwave infrared is that it’s instant. You flip the switch and you feel it. It’s perfect for those 15-minute morning routines. But watch out for the initial power spike. If you’re wiring several units onto one line, make sure your circuit breaker can handle the hit. And a pro tip? Hook them up to a PIR motion sensor. There is nothing more wasteful than a high-wattage heater warming up an empty room. This way, it only fires up when you actually walk in. Simple.